Art by the bay

You smell Sassoon Docks before you see it. The olfactory hints grow stronger past the red and white archway, as you do some quick-stepping to avoid the strewn prawn shells that litter the way to the jetty. But few take this short walk by the warehouses, save the amateur photographer, curious visitor or restaurant owner. It’sContinue reading “Art by the bay”

Walking back in time

It’s 1874. Mumbai’s first tram has just pulled away from Parel TT towards Colaba. As the horse-drawn carriage trudges ahead, a turn of the head reveals a stepwell, wide enough to accommodate the horses. Remember it is the age of nobility. Little wonder then that the news of Prince Albert’s arrival a year later hasContinue reading “Walking back in time”

Getting the Olive Ridleys home

Under the starlit sky and crescent moon, we headed out to prepare for the human visitors. The stumps and rope were brought out and an enclosure made for the safe passage of the tiny creatures. We were in Velas, a small village in Ratnagiri, which accounts for about 40% of the population of Olive RidleyContinue reading “Getting the Olive Ridleys home”

Back to school

When I first landed there, the kids were practicing for a dance competition. Nepali melodies were blasting off the lone speaker as the teachers corrected the steps and got the formation right. Seated on a small stool, a step above the veranda, I marvelled at the conceptualisation as the tune imprinted itself into my memory.Continue reading “Back to school”

The Great Indian Railways

I was half leaning against the sideboard, tying my hair,  eyes still groggy with sleep, when what do I see – a peacock strutting on the dusty road adjoining the rail tracks. The sun was still rising at this point as I gaped at these birds from the coveted side lower berth during my journeyContinue reading “The Great Indian Railways”